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How much should I bet per game?

Bankroll
3 diagrams9 min readUpdated Aug 22, 2026
Short answer
Pick a unit of 1–2% of your bankroll and keep it flat. Bet sizing is risk control, not a way to make a bad edge good.Confidence-based sizing only works if your confidence is an accurate probability estimate. For almost everyone, it isn't, which is exactly why flat betting wins by default.Kelly auto-scales your bet size with your bankroll and edge. Flat betting doesn't, so raising your unit is a manual call you make after a real sample, not a good week.

Bet selection decides whether you have an edge. Bet sizing decides whether you're still around to collect it. Almost everyone who blows up a bankroll does it with the second one.

The full menu of bankroll strategies

There are more ways to size bets than the two this article recommends. Knowing the full list matters even if you never use most of it, because it's how you recognize which one you're actually doing right now.

No bankroll management. No set-aside bankroll, no unit, no ceiling, just betting whatever's sitting in the account. Not a strategy, the absence of one, and it's how most people who blow up an account actually get there.
Fixed-dollar flat betting. Betting the same dollar amount every time, say $50 a game, regardless of how the bankroll is doing. Better than nothing, but it doesn't scale: $50 is 5% of a $1,000 roll and 0.5% of a $10,000 one, so the actual risk per bet quietly changes as the bankroll moves, even though the number on the ticket doesn't.
Flat betting by percentage (unit betting). The same fixed percentage of the current bankroll on every play. This is the version covered in depth below, and it's what most disciplined bettors who can't precisely calculate their edge actually use.
Confidence-based sizing. Betting more on plays that feel stronger and less on ones that don't. Covered below too, because it's extremely common and quietly dangerous.
The Kelly criterion. A formula that sizes each bet directly from your calculated edge. Covered in depth below. Needs a real, tested way to estimate your win probability to be worth using at all.
Martingale-style progressive betting. Doubling the bet after every loss, on the idea that one eventual win recovers everything. Borrowed from casino table games, and it fails for the same reason there: it assumes an unlimited bankroll and no betting limits, and a real losing streak (which will happen) can demand a bet size several times your entire bankroll before it turns around. This one isn't a recommendation. It's on the list because people ask about it, and it's worth knowing exactly why it doesn't work.

What a unit is

A unit is one standard bet, defined as a percentage of your bankroll rather than a dollar amount. On a $2,000 bankroll, a 1% unit is $20. The percentage is the real definition. That's what lets the same rule work at $500 and at $50,000.

One unit, on a $2,000 bankrollA unit is a percentage first and a dollar amount second.
CONSERVATIVE1%$20Survives cold stretchesSTANDARD2%$40The common defaultAGGRESSIVE3%+$60+Needs a proven edgeWhichever you pick, keep it flat. The size is risk control, not a confidence dial.
↔ swipe to see the whole diagram

Flat betting

Flat betting means every bet is one unit. It sounds unsophisticated, and it's what the majority of disciplined bettors actually do. Its virtue is that it makes your results readable: if every bet is the same size, your record means what it appears to mean, and no single loss can be catastrophic.

The alternative most people fall into isn't a system. It's confidence-based sizing that quietly becomes chasing. Bigger after losses to get even, bigger after wins because you're 'running good'. Both are the same mistake wearing different moods.

Here's the actual reasoning for why flat betting beats confidence-based sizing for almost everyone, not just a rule to take on faith. Sizing a bet correctly by 'how confident you are' requires that your confidence is an accurate readout of your real win probability on that specific bet. That's exactly what the Kelly criterion below needs too, a genuine, tested probability estimate, not a feeling. If you don't have a model or a track record that actually calibrates your gut sense against real outcomes, 'this one feels like a lock' and 'this one feels shaky' aren't measuring your edge. They're measuring your mood, how a broadcast narrative framed the game, or how your last few bets went. Betting more on the ones that feel good adds variance to your results without adding any real information, which is strictly worse than doing nothing. Flat betting sidesteps the whole problem: it makes your bet size independent of a read you can't actually verify, and it isolates the one skill you're trying to measure, picking games, from a sizing skill most bettors don't actually have yet.

The Kelly criterion

Kelly is the mathematically optimal bet size for maximizing long-run bankroll growth, given a known edge:

f = (b × p − q) ÷ b
b = profit per $1 risked, p = your win probability, q = 1 − p.

For a 55% opinion at -110 (b = 0.909): f = (0.909 × 0.55 − 0.45) ÷ 0.909 = 5.5% of bankroll. That is an enormous bet by normal standards, and it's the correct answer only if 55% is exactly right.

Why almost nobody bets full Kelly
Kelly assumes you know your true edge. You don't. You estimated it. Overestimating your edge makes full Kelly wildly over-aggressive, so quarter-Kelly or half-Kelly is the common compromise. Quarter-Kelly on that example is about 1.4%, which lands right back in normal unit territory.
Kelly, and what people actually betThe optimal size, and the fractions used in practice.
5.5%Full Kelly$110 of $2,0002.75%Half Kelly$551.38%Quarter$281.0%Flat 1 unit$20
↔ swipe to see the whole diagram

When should you actually raise your unit size?

The two strategies above handle this completely differently, and mixing them up is its own mistake. Kelly already has the answer built into the formula: it takes your current bankroll and your calculated edge as direct inputs, so the bet size adjusts automatically every time either one changes. There's no separate decision to make. Raise the bankroll figure you plug in, or update your edge estimate with more data, and the correct size moves with it.

Flat betting doesn't have that built in, which means the bettor has to make the judgment call by hand. The mistake almost everyone makes is upping the unit right after a good week or a hot month, exactly the sample size least likely to mean anything. The better version of this decision waits for a real stretch, a full season, a large enough sample that the result is more likely to reflect actual skill than a run of variance, before recalculating what percentage the bankroll should be. If you can't articulate why now is the right moment beyond 'it's been going well lately,' it isn't the right moment yet.

Sizing for the drawdowns that will happen

At a 55% win rate, five straight losses happen about 1.8% of the time, which across a full season of betting means it will happen to you more than once. At a more realistic 53%, it happens more often than that. Your unit size has to be a number you can lose ten of in a row without changing how you bet.

The same losing run, three unit sizesShare of the starting bankroll gone after a cold streak.
5 straight losses1% units5%2% units10%5% units25%10 straight losses1% units10%2% units20%5% units50%15 straight losses1% units15%2% units30%5% units75%Share of the starting bankroll gone, flat-staking through the run.
↔ swipe to see the whole diagram
Set the bankroll as money that has no other job. If losing it changes your life, it isn't a bankroll.
Recalculate the unit periodically, not per bet. Chasing the bankroll up and down every day defeats the point.
Keep the unit flat across sports and bet types. A 'lock' feeling is not an input to the math.
Track everything in units, not dollars. It's the only way to compare your own performance across bankroll sizes.
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